Oceanography Flashcards

Study, learn and revise about Oceanography with our quiz based flashcards. Here are the key terms, definitions, words, and much more related to the topic of Oceanography, which is simple and easy to learn with our flashcards. ​

11 cards   |   Total Attempts: 189
  

Cards In This Set

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Describe differences between summertime and wintertime beaches. Why do these differences occur?
Summer beaches: light waves, sand moves landward, wide berm, causes build up of sand

Winter beaches: stronger waves, sand moves seaward, offshore bars (beaches have less sand b/c it has eroded
What is longshore drift and how is it related to longshore current?
Longshore drift is movement of sediment in a zig zag fashin. It is caused by the longshore current.

Longshore current is what is moving the water and sediment
Describe the response of a barrier island to a rise in sea level. Why do some barrier islands develop peat deposits running through them from the ocean beach to the salt marsh?
The barrier reef moves inland due to the rising sea level. The entire island rolls over itself. The peat deposits are formed by the build of of the organic matter in the marsh.
Compare the causes and effects of tectonic vs. eustatic changes in sea level.
Tectonic- most dramatic, effects elevation of land, emerging shoreline b/c of tectonic plate activity, local sea level falls (ISOSTATIC)

Eustatic- global changes in sea level, changes in sea floor spreading rate, ice volumes change, thermal expansion due to warming climate
List the types of hard stabalization and describe what each is intended to do.
Groin- trap sand moving along coast in longshore transport

jetty- protect harbor entrances from waves and trap sand migrated eastward across coast

breakwater- break waves and create a harbor, accumulates sand, parallel to beach

seawall- armor the coastline
Name types of coastal wetland environments and the latitude ranges where each will likely develop. How do wetlands contribute to the biology of the oceans and the cleansing of polluted river water?
Mangroves- below 30 degrees latitude (tropics)
removes pollutants, gentle places, good for organisms


Salt marshes- between 30-65 degrees latitude
salt and clay
What factors lead to a wide seasonal range of salinity in Laguna Madre?
Less than a meter deep which causes large seasonal changes (really shallow)

south padre island keeps the lagoon protected from the open ocean

subsurface flow- hypersaline

really narrow passages
Draw and describe the 4 major classes of estuaries
Coastal plain- drowned river valleys

fjord- area of land carved out by glacier and filled in (u-shape, steep side and deep)

bar-built estuary- shallow and separated from open ocean by sand bars running parallel to coast

tectonic estuary- folding or faulting causes a restricted downdropped area where rivers flow
Describe lifestyles of plankton, nekton, and benthos. Why is it true that plankton account for a much larger percentage of the ocean's biomass than benthos and nekton?
Plankton- drift
benthos- on bottom
nekton- swimmers
Because there is so much more mass and area the plankton live in and is an easy lifestyle
List the relative number of species of animals found in the terrestrial, pelagic, and benthic environments, and discuss the factors that may account for this distribution.
Benthic- 98%
pelagic- the rest
only 14% of species live in water b/c of unique habitats they can evolve into
so many more terrestrial species
Pelagic is the same everywhere (cold and dark)
ocean has uniform conditions
Why is biological productivity relatively low in tropical open ocean, where penetration of sunlight is greatest?
B/c of the warm sunlight- warm surface waters, cold bottom waters.
Because of thermocline you cannot mix the water