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Cards In This Set
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Crest
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Also known as a wave, the portion of an ocean wave that is displaced above the still-water line
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Trough
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The part of an ocean wave that is displaced below the still-water line
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Constructive interference
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A form of wave interference in which 2 waves come together in phase, (for example, crest to crest) to produce a greater displacement from the still-water line than that produced by either if the waves alone
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Destructive interference
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A form of wave interference in which 2 waves come together out of phase, (for example, crest to trough) to produce less displacement than the larger of the 2 waves would have produced alone
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Wave height
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(H) the vertical distance between a crest and the preceding trough
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Wave period
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(T) the elapsed time between the passage of 2 successive wave crests past a fixed point
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Wave length
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(L) the horizontal distance between 2 corresponding points on successive waves (such as from crest to crest)
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Wave frequency
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(f)the number of waves that past a fixed point ina unit of time(usually one second)
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Surf zone
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The region between the shoreline and the line of breakers where most wave energy is released
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Swell
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A free ocean wave by which energy put into ocean waves by wind in the sea is transported with little energy loss across great stretches of ocean to the margins of continents where energy is released in the surf zone
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Still water level
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Average water surface elevation at any instant, excluding local variation due to waves and wave set-up, but including the effects of tides, storm surges and long period seiches.
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Wave steepness
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Ratio of wave height to wavelength
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Diurnal wave pattern
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*a tide with one high water and one low water during a tidal day. Tidal period is 24h., 50 Min (***definition is of vocab DIURNAL TIDE)
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Flood current
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A tidal current associated with increasing height of a tide, generally moving towards the shore
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Spring tide
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Tide of maximum range occurring every fotnight when the moon is new or full
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